Jenyfer Matthews
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Thursday, October 18th, 2007
I will Survive

The men who work at our vegetable stand are so, so nice. They are always very pleasant to deal with and very hospitable. They love to feed me whatever they happen to have around when I drop by.


Now, out of necessity, I am usually quite cautious about where and what I eat here in Cairo. It’s easy enough to eat something that hasn’t been handled properly and then spend the next week running for the bathroom. The child of one of my neighbors has had giardia twice in the last few months. I wash my produce with either a scrub brush and dish soap or give it a long soak in vinegar and water before we consume it. I even wash my eggs in water with a dollop of bleach (you would too if you saw some of the shells! Yuck!)


In spite of all my caution, it is nearly impossible for me to reject the food offered to me by the vegetable guys. Sometimes it’s a cookie or cake that his wife made. Sometimes he shares his breakfast of foul and baladi bread (fava bean mash) On occasion he’ll pick up a piece of whatever fruit is in season to give me a taste, in an effort to make a sale.


Once he cut a plum in half and offered half to me and half to another woman who was in the shop at the same time. I took my half – in spite of having seen him polish the fruit on his galabeya and then cut it with a knife of questionable cleanliness. The other woman refused. She didn’t even take it from him to be nice to hold on to it for discreet disposal later. When she turned her back, the man made a mad face and waved her off with his hand. I didn’t want to hurt his feelings so I ate my half in front of him.


My acceptance of his food makes him happy – but it also encourages him to share more and more. I have survived my encounters with him thus far, but his week he upped the ante. He offered me milk fresh from his cow. He assured me that he had washed his hands and the cow’s udders before he milked it. He poured the remains of the milk – the last he had – into a small glass mug. There was no way for me to take it with me, and no plausible reason sprang to mind for why I couldn’t drink it. So I did.


I tried to get my husband to share it with me, but he refused, pointing out that one of us had to survive to raise the children. The milk was warm and sweet, like no milk I’ve ever had before. I asked if it had sugar added to it but he said no, straight from the cow. I had no way of knowing whether the fact that it was warm meant that it had been boiled to sterilize it or if it was the cow’s residual body heat I was noting.


I waited a few days to write this just to see if indeed I would survive. So far, so good.

Now, off to clean my balcony now that the rain has stopped. And then to prepare for the party. With six little boys in the house, I have decided it would be prudent to roll up my large Afghan carpet. Since my son requested it to be a “pajama party” I will throw a comforter out on the floor instead and several bed pillows. They won’t be sleeping over but it’s all about the proper ambiance, right?

Wednesday, October 17th, 2007
When it rains…

It does pour!

It’s a really good thing that I didn’t plan to have my son’s party outside after all – we had actual thunderstorms all night! Rain in Egypt is rare enough but actual thunderstorms are practically unheard of. People who have been here much longer than me have told me that they haven’t seen weather like this in a decade.

You’d think that a good rain would be cleansing but in fact things here are messier still after the rain. All of the dust that has accumulated on the leaves in the trees and on just about every other flat surface you can imagine washes off and lands on surfaces below. My balcony is a mess. The dust from the thatched roof has collected in the large puddles on the floor – and of course the floor slants away from the drain pipe. I’ll have to get out there with my giant squeegy-on-a-stick when it finally stops.

I can only imagine what the back garden looks like. Yes, the rain has made having an inside party a more attractive option all the way around…

Edited to add:
I had to put off some morning errands because of the rain. I didn’t relish walking around in it and apparently taxis are scarce when it rains because few have functional windshield wipers! And the driving becomes even worse after a rain. There is no sewer system so picture streets with pond-like puddles – and drivers not accustomed to driving in rain. A good day to stay in…

Wednesday, October 10th, 2007
Ssshh! Birthday Surprise!

October is a busy month for me. Nearly all the men in my immediate family have birthdays in October – and my husband and my son are only a week apart. Fortunately I already have a present for my son. My husband is a little harder.

His birthday is tomorrow. As if it wasn’t hard enough finding a present for the man, I had to go to three different grocery stores just to find the sour cream I needed to make the cheesecake he has requested. I thought I was going to have to ask him for an alternate when I finally got lucky and found the only package of sour cream in the neighborhood.

As for a present, I think I got lucky there as well. My husband requested some Egyptian statuary. Should be easy, right? Thing is, he didn’t want just any thing, he has specific requirements. And what he wants doesn’t exist in our neighborhood. Fortunately he knows that. But I think he’ll like what I did find.

What do you think? Isn’t it handsome? What every man needs – a basalt canopic jar with an Anubis head lid. And at 25 lbs / 11 kgs it’s no trivial thing. (I had it delivered, of course!!)

And cheesecake too – what a lucky man!

Tuesday, October 2nd, 2007
An Ode to Pomegranates (and other things Egyptian)

There are times when I get a little homesick – there are lots of things to miss in America. Right now that mostly centers around shopping because I have to buy a birthday present for my husband and I’m stumped. He’s a hard man to buy for (aren’t they all??) and having a huge overflowing mall at my doorstep would be helpful. I’m going to have to get creative on that. In the meantime I decided to count my blessings instead.

Things I like about Egypt:

<!–[if !supportLists]–>1) <!–[endif]–>Delivery, delivery, delivery – you can get just about anything delivered, including fast food like McDonald’s and KFC (which can be ordered online). I have my groceries delivered every week (no car, no elevator, nuff said). My green grocer comes door to door when he gets in vegetables he knows we like. Last week he brought a bunch of aging bananas to me because he knows I like to make banana bread.

<!–[if !supportLists]–>2) <!–[endif]–>Doctors who make house calls – for the same or less than their office rate.

<!–[if !supportLists]–><!–[endif]–><!–[if !supportLists]–>3) Pomegranates. The seeds are crunchy and sweet. And ahhh, pomegranate juice – tis the season. If you’ve never had it, it’s wonderful stuff. You can make it yourself, but my kitchen always looks like a bloodbath afterwards. An easier option is to buy it from the fresh juice stand at the market. A liter and a half costs about $2.

4) <!–[endif]–>Baladi bread – a local pocket flat bread made with whole grains with a dusting of corn meal on the outside. A bag of 8 pieces costs about $.30. You often see it laying on the hoods and roofs of cars to cool in the local neighborhoods and being delivered in large flat cane baskets balanced on cyclists’ heads. I buy mine at the grocery store but I can’t be sure where it was before it got there (not sure I want to know either!)

<!–[if !supportLists]–>5) <!–[endif]–>Everybody knows you. When you’ve gone in to a shop frequently enough the staff get to know you. I never even have to say where I live anymore to the grocery delivery guys, they just know. People I don’t recognize know where I live! That would bother me in other places but here it’s just the way it is.

<!–[if !supportLists]–>6) <!–[endif]–>Mashrabia screens – the lace of woodwork, so lovely to look at.

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7) <!–[endif]–>The history. Where else could my children get to visit the Red Sea, the library in Alexandria, the Valley of the Kings and the Mediterranean sea in one place? Take school field trips to the Nile River, the great Pyramids, and the Egyptian Museum?

<!–[if !supportLists]–> 8) <!–[endif]–>Sunset Feluca (sailboat) rides. Bring a picnic and take an hour’s sail on the Nile River with a dozen of your closest friends for less than $10 – shared 12 ways.

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9) <!–[endif]–>Strawberry season – long and sweet. Have you ever had fresh strawberry juice? Heaven. (Why are so many of my items food related??)

<!–[if !supportLists]–>10) <!–[endif]–>The generosity of the people. I was once a little short of cash at the vegetable stand and asked if I could pay them when they brought the food since I did have money at home. They not only said yes, but the owner whipped out his money roll and offered to give me a loan so I could complete my shopping!

Hmmm…now I’m hungry. Think I’ll go and have some breakfast. If you have any husband-gift ideas, I’m all ears.

Thursday, September 20th, 2007
Happy Accidents

I had a rather eventful morning.

Most days start out the same: I get up, pack school lunches, take the kids to the bus stop and then by 8am I’m on my own until the kids come home from school. I normally come home, have a little breakfast, sit down and check email and then try to write something.

Not today.

Today, while waiting at the bus stop with my kids (which was late arriving), I witnessed a minor car accident involving a neighbor in my building and a local. My neighbor was attempting to make a left turn on to our street. The local was also trying to make left turn – local style: he pulled into the oncoming lane of traffic and started his turn from there, into what would have been the middle/right side of the street onto which he was turning.

Fortunately, the damage to either car was minimal but there was lots of confusion since none of us was bilingual. I put my kids on their bus, which arrived moments after, and went down to our building to find someone to interpret. After about fifteen minutes it was agreed just to let the matter go and each driver would take care of his own car. Since my neighbor only had a scrape and the other driver wasn’t even the owner of the car he crunched, I think my neighbor got the better end of the deal.

On the way back to my own place, I ran into a South African woman who was out walking her dog. She inquired about the accident and then announced that she was pretty sure that a bus driver who was parked on our road had just propositioned her. It seemed an unlikely thing to happen during the school rush at 8am, but what do I know? I don’t speak Arabic either. And it certainly worked as a conversation starter.

We got to talking and she invited me up to her (magnificent) apartment for a cup of tea. She gave me the grand tour and it turned out that we have quite a bit in common. We practically talked over each other for a little over an hour and I left with a standing invitation to come over anytime and the offer of a ride to a bigger grocery store I don’t often visit since I don’t have a car.

And just think, if the kids’ bus hadn’t been late I would have gone home sooner and maybe missed the chance to make a new friend.

Does it sound odd, the speed with which we bonded? I’m a friendly, chatty sort of person and have never had trouble making friends. I admit her openness – normally only found in Americans on airplanes – took me aback just a bit. But I think that when you’re living in a community of people who come and go so quickly, that you learn the art of making friends quickly. Who has time to be coy when either of you may be gone in a year?

My only reservations about this friendship at present revolve around the fact that having such a pleasant distraction so close by may cut into my productive time that much more…