As I said, I’m not particularly superstitious. I didn’t see any black cats, no open ladders, and no birds acted strangely towards me on Friday. I thought I was in the clear for bad luck. However, I would have been well advised to stay home anyway.
Instead I accepted an invitation to go out to a bar with some friends of mine.
How could I resist? A bar, in Egypt? That’s a part of life here I’ve never experienced so I just had to go. Besides, this place had a live band playing and I kept hearing how much fun it was. I’ve never really been much of a bar-goer, but that seemed all the more reason to go and see what it was like.
I did it for you.
The bar itself was very small. There was a 50LE (about $9) fee to get in, which I thought was a cover charge, but the ticket was actually good toward two “free” drinks – after which the drinks were exorbitantly expensive (as they are in most bars the world over). It was a small space with a very low ceiling and the crowd was mixed between Westerners and Egyptians, with slightly more Egyptians. The band played raggae music that night so there wasn’t so much dancing as group swaying. All in all it was a pretty typical bar.
Except for the smoke.
Nearly everyone in the place was chain smoking, compounded by the fact that there was next to no ventilation. It’s not as if I’ve never seen anyone in a bar smoking before (though I am very happy that it isn’t the case in most of the US anymore), but this was taken to new levels. Smoke hung in layers in the air and was so thick that I actually coughed a few times. How anyone could actually actively continue to smoke in such an atmosphere seemed almost ridiculous – why bother? I must have smoked a pack of second-hand smoke just sitting there for a couple of hours.
I knew that my clothes and my hair would stink when I left but I didn’t anticipate how sick I would feel the next day. When I spoke I sounded like I’d had a 3 pack a day habit for the last decade, and I felt as if I had a cloud of smoke lingering in my chest. I could taste smoke in my mouth – it was as if I just kept exhaling it – had a headache, and was generally so debilitated by the toxins I’d taken in just by breathing that I spent most of Saturday in bed.
What a waste of a day.
One of my companions was giving me names of other bars I might be interested in visiting. The only one that sounded remotely tempting was one located down on the Nile – which is open air. I’ve always found the air in Cairo hard enough to take, but it really does seem quite fresh by comparison to that smokey bar. Ugh. I’m definitely too old for bar hopping.
Friday the 13th wasn’t my best day, but I suppose it could be argued that I brought that on myself. Anyone else have bad luck on Friday? How did you spend the weekend?



















